JK Lubrication and Fluids

LUBRICATION AND FLUIDS

This is what I have found so far, I need the FSM to verify a coupld of them, but they seem to be pretty much in line with what Jeep used on it's previous versions

Chassis
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
Steering Gear & Linkage, Ball Joints, Prop Shafts & Yokes, Wheel Bearings	Mopar® Multi-Purpose Lubricant NLGI Grade 2 EP, GC-LB
Body
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
Hinges: Door and Hood	Mopar® Engine Oil
Lift Gate	Mopar® Multi-Purpose Lubricant NLGI Grade 2 EP, GC-LB
Latches: Door, Hood/Safety Catch, Liftgate	Mopar® Multi-Purpose Lubricant NLGI Grade 2 EP, GC-LB
Seat Regulator & Track	Mopar® Multi-Purpose Lubricant NLGI Grade 2 EP, GC-LB
Window System Components	Mopar ® Spray White Lube
Lock Cylinders	Mopar® Lock Cylinder Lube
Parking Brake Mechanism	Mopar® Wheel Bearing Grease NLGI Grade 1, GC-LBB
Soft Top	Mopar® Soft Top Zipper Cleaner & Lubricant
Coolant
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
50/50 mix 13 quarts (12L)	Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/ 100,000 mile Formula HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology)
Engine 3.8L/ Filter
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
6 Quarts (5.7L)	API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil is recommended. Meets the requirements of DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395
Oil Filter	Mopar Oil Filter (P/N 04105409AC)
Transfer Case NV241
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
4.2 Pints (2.0L)	Mopar® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid
Transmission
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
Auto = 8.0 pints (3.8 L) service 17.6 pints (8.3L) overhaul Additional capacity dependent upon installation of coolers, etc.	Mopar® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent
NSG370 = 4.2 pints (1.98L) Fill to bottom edge of plug hole.	Mopar® Manual Transmission Lubricant or equivalent (meeting the requirements of DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-9224)
Axles
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
Front 216FBI (Model 44) = 4.0 pints (1.89L)	Mopar® Gear Lubricant 80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopar ® Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-140)
Rear 226RBI (Model 44) = 4.0 pints (1.89L)	Mopar® Gear Lubricant 80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopar ® Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-140)
Power Steering
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
Capacity varies dependent upon installation of coolers, etc.	Mopar® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid
Brake Master Cylinder
Component	Fluid, Lubricant or DCX Part
	Mopar® DOT 3 Brake Fluid, SAE J1703 should be used. If DOT 3, SAE J1703 brake fluid is not available, then DOT 4 is acceptable. Use only recommended brake fluids.

Definitions:
SAE Viscosity Rating: An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the viscosity of engine oil. These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade that indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity range. Example SAE 10W-30 = multi-grade engine oil.

Lubricants and Greases: Lubricating grease is rated for quality and usage by the NLGI. All approved products have the NLGI symbol on the label. At the bottom NLGI symbol is the usage and quality identification letters. Wheel bearing lubricant is identified by the letter “G”. Chassis lubricant is identified by the letter “L”. The letter following the usage letter indicates the quality of the lubricant. Examples; GC = Wheel Bearings, LB = Chassis Lubrication, and GC-LB = Chassis and Wheel Bearings.

SAE: Society of Automotive Engineers

NLGI: National Lubricating Grease Institute

API: American Petroleum Institute

This page last updated: 25-Jun-2018

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail, Ronald Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work. While I have spent many years working on mechanical systems, I am not an expert, nor do I pretend to be one. I hope these write ups have been useful to you.
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