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Off Road Only SwayLoc

Off Road Only SwayLoc

Part #:

I grew tired of having to get out and disconnect my front anti-sway bar all the time.  Then came the headache of clipping it up and out of the way.  I had looked at the Currie Anti-Rock (actually had one sitting on my workbench), but decided I didn't want to deal with the inherent body roll that comes with it.  So I kept looking.  Then Off Road Only introduced their SwayLoc.  

"SwayLOC is a dual rate Anti-Sway bar system that allows the operator an easy method of changing from on road rate to off road rate. The on road rate is softer than the OEM Anti-sway bar, this will allow a more compliant ride on highway, as the SwayLOC will absorb some of the jarring that may be transmitted to the vehicle thru the OEM Anti-sway bar. The off road rate is unique in that the SwayLOC will allow full range of articulation on most vehicles, but during this range of movement will continue to provide resistance and will usually deliver a more balanced feel of the vehicle."

"The transition from off road to on road is done either by manual engagement of a lever mounted on the passenger side control arm, or on a vehicle equipped with an on board air supply, the actuation may be done pneumatically. The pneumatic actuation can be operated either by an electrical switch inside the Jeep, or if the Jeep also has an AiROCK™ air suspension system installed, then the software in the AiROCK™ will automatically control the actuation based on the preference of the operator."

Additional Parts:
Silicone Lube
Red Locktite

Tools Needed:
Dremel Tool
Flat Tip Screwdriver
Rubber Mallet
Tape Measure
Torque Wrench
T-55 Torx
Short Extension
9/16" Socket
3/4" Socket
1 1/8" Socket
1 1/4" Socket
10mm Socket
15mm Socket
1/4" Combo Wrench
5/16" Combo Wrench
9/16" Combo Wrench
5/8" Combo Wrench
(2) 3/4" Combo Wrench
13mm Combo Wrench
18mm Combo Wrench
7/32" Allen Wrench


1. Remove the front anti-sway bar.  Now if your like me you need to remove your aftermarket bumper and winch.
2. Remove the 6 T-55 Torx bolts that hold the bumper to the frame.
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3. Undo the fog light lead so that you can remove the bumper.  Note: Failure to unplug this will result in either bumper coming out of hands, or wires coming out of Jeep.  Just press in on the clip and they come apart, you will need to pull the plastic end out of the hole on under the bumper.  It has a push retainer on the clip.
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4.  Disconnect the winch from the battery and feed these cables back down to the winch.  See note above, remember winch is heavier than bumper.
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5. Disconnect the anti-sway bar links from the axle. If you have disco's then just pull the pins.  In my case I had JKS disco's so I needed a 3/4" Socket to remove the lower pins.  If you still have the stock links, you will need a T-55 Torx and an 18mm Combo wrench to remove the lower bolt.
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6. If you still have the stock cover on over the anti sway bar you will need to remove this.  Remove the 2 bolts on either side with a 10mm socket.
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7. Remove the 4 bolts holding the anti-sway bar to the frame.  This requires a 15mm socket and a short extension.  I recommend using a rag when you remove the bolt by the grill so you don't damage the paint.
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8. Slid the entire bar assembly forward and out from the Jeep.
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9. Take a moment to clean off the debris that has accumulated on the front frame.
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10. Take a look inside and at the front cross tube.  Make certain nothing is sticking to far into the tube.  I used the simple rule of if I could see it above the dimples I needed to cut it down a little.  I also had a bad weld slag on the driver side that I needed to cut off and grind down.  Take a moment to paint any areas that you ground.
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Here is the parts that you get with the AiROCK, or OBA kit.  Everything comes nicely packed and labeled.  Quality control is wonderful.  The directions for this kit are awesome.  This write up incorporates those directions.
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11. Insert one of the frame bushings into the D shaped tube in the frame. Drive the bushing fully into place using a wooden block and mallet if necessary.
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12. Wipe down the torsion tube with Silicone lube and insert tube in bushing.  The directions state an alternate way of doing this, which is to insert the bushing onto the torsion tube leaving 3/4" extended out.  This actually works the best.  I used a 1 1/4" socket to drive the bushing into the frame.
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13. Once tube is thru the frame rail, install opposite frame bushing and drive into place with large socket to fit over tube if necessary.  I used a 1 1/4" Socket.  If you drive the torsion tube out the other side, just tap it back in.
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14. Center the Torsion tube in the frame side to side, with approximately 3/4" of the tube extending thru the driver side bushing when it is fully seated up to the frame cross member.
15. Check the splines of the short passenger inner arm to make certain that they are clear of any debris.  This will prevent you from being able to install the arm smoothly.  Install the short passenger inner arm on the torsion tube, place arm so that the latching point is horizontal to the ground and ensure that the 1/4" wide web is offset to the outside of the vehicle.   I coated the splines with silicone lube and slid the arm over them.  I used the mallet to gently persuade the arm onto the torsion tube. (Note: An easier way is to allow the arm to hang straight down.)
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16. The arm should sit flush against with the torsion tube, double check the other side to make certain that the tube and bushing didn't slid out.  There should still be 3/4" of the tube extending out.
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17. Install the inner arm so that the large Pedal is towards the outside (or the side with the stickers on it goes out).  The inner arm web and splined hub should be flat on the side that mates the outer arm. Install one 3/8 x 2 ” bolt thru the cross-hole, install 3/8 lock nut and only snug the nut and bolt at this time.  This needs a 9/16" socket and combo wrench
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18. Install the Driver side arm (this arm has two splined hubs welded to it and does not have the fancy latch assembly).  Check the splined section for any debris and clean it out with a scribe or wire brush before you try to install this arm.
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19. The arm should be positioned at the same angle as the latching notch on the passenger inner arm when you install it.   I couldn't get it quite perfectly parallel, but really close.  The torsion tube should insert fully to make contact with the smaller diameter hub.  If it doesn't go on this far, double check both bushings and the passenger side.  I needed to hold the passenger side short arm in and tap the drive side arm on the rest of the way with a mallet.  Install one 3/8 x 2 ” bolt thru the cross-hole on the inner hub, install 3/8 lock nut and only snug the nut and bolt at this time.  This needs a 9/16" socket and combo wrench. (Note: An easier way is to allow the arm to hang straight down.)
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20. Insert the 1" splined torsion shaft inside the torsion tube from the passenger side.
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21. Rotate and engage the splines on the drivers arm, insert fully. Install one 3/8 x 2 ” bolt thru the cross-hole on the outer hub, install 3/8 lock nut and only snug the nut and bolt at this time. This needs a 9/16" socket and combo wrench.
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22. Assemble the aluminum washer and mating flathead cap screw and attach to the center torsion bar on the drivers side, snug but do not tighten yet. This requires a 7/32" Allen Wrench.
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23. Insert the brass bushing on passenger side between the inner and outer torsion bars.
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24. the shoulder on the bushing should rest against the inner and outer arm with the sleeve of the bushing inserted inside the tubular torsion bar.  I used a 1 1/8" Socket to tap this in.  Double check the Driver Side to make certain you didn't drive the arm out at all.
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25. Locate the arm with the air cylinder and latch and one of the ” Nylock nuts. 
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26.  Slide the latch assembly away from the air cylinder, insert the Nylock nut as shown.  It should be fairly easy to move, but if not use a screwdriver to gently pry the latch away from the bracket holding the air cylinder.  I suggest putting a rag around the screwdriver and being careful of the small shaft from the air cylinder.  This will allow you to install the arm onto the Passenger Side.
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27. Position the arm at the same angle as the short arm and the driver side arms.  I was unable to do this.  I was either up just slightly from the latch point, or down just slightly from the latch point.  Almost as if it was cut just 1/2 spline off on rotation.  Not bad in my book.  Remember we are trying to line up 4 pieces on 2 different shafts.  The distance off equaled 1/2 of the latching device.  Install one 3/8 x 2 ” bolt thru the cross-hole on the outer hub, install 3/8 lock nut and only snug the nut and bolt at this time. This needs a 9/16" socket and combo wrench.  (Note: An easier way is to allow the arm to hang straight down.)
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28. Once the arm is fully seated, assemble the aluminum washer and mating flathead cap screw and attach to the center torsion bar on the passenger side, snug but do not tighten yet.
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29. Remove both of the aluminum washer and mating flathead cap screws and check for full insertion of inner torsion bar. If adequate, the bar should be flush on one side and less than the thickness of a dime short on the opposite. If the torsion bar appears to be too short, then check to make certain that the bushings are fully seated in the frame, and that the inner arms are fully seated against the bushings.  Reinstalling the aluminum washer and flat head cap screw, loosening the 3/8” cross bolts and then tightening the flat head screws may help to snug the arms together, but if the bushings need to go in farther, it may be necessary to remove the arms and drive the bushings into the frame with a block of wood and a mallet.  I played around with mine since I was out the thickness of a dime on both sides.  In the end it was either clamp this baby together with my hi-lift jack or just leave it.  I just centered the torsion shaft.
30. Remove one aluminum washer and flat head cap screw at at time.  Place a single drop of Locktite on each bolt and reinstall.
31. Now go thru and tighten each of the 3/8” bolts that hold the arms to the torsion bars. Torque each of the 3/8” bolts to 40ft-lbs.  Remember to torque the nut, not the bolt
32. Assemble the Linkage assemblies.
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33. Be sure to insert one jam nut on each rod end before engaging the rod end in the hex aluminum housing.  The Jam Nut requires a 3/4" Open end Wrench and so does the aluminum housing.  So if you don't have a second 3/4" wrench, a 19mm will work.
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Note on adjusting Links: The links should be adjusted so that the arms do not limit the extension of the front suspension. It is imperative that the suspension reaches full extension before the links limit the droop, otherwise damage to the SwayLOC may occur as the arms will rotate under and forward. Verify at full compression the links do not make contact with the Jeep inner fender area. Measure the distance between bump stop and the contact point and figure that as the approximate up travel on the arms. Do not forget to add for the squish of the bump stop.
34. Install links on the SwayLOC.  Install link on the outside of the arms.  Install 1/2" Nylock nut.  You will need 3/4" Socket and a 5/8" Combo Wrench.  You will notice that the SwayLOC has 4 holes in it.  This is for adjusting the ride.    The closer to the front, the stiffer the ride.
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35. Install link on the axle.  These go in the in side of the axle mount.  If you can't seem to find that missing 1/2" Nylock Nut, look in the passenger side arm, it's in the latch assembly.
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36. Now since I did not have AiROCK installed I needed to do the install for OnBoard Air.  This would allow the SwayLOC to be switch controlled from inside the cab.  
37. Install the solenoid assembly in any convenient location under the hood.  The solenoid may be placed anywhere, in any position, only limited by the length of the harness to the red rocker switch.
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38. I decided that the flat spot in front of the air cleaner would be a perfect spot for the Solenoid to be mounted. You will use a 1/4" socket to drive in the self tapping screws to hold the bracket on to the fender well. DSC02906.JPG (337278 bytes)
39. I mounted the bracket to the back of the Solenoid. You will need either a 1/4" and 5/16" combo wrench or a flat tip screwdriver and a 5/16" combo wrench. DSC02904.JPG (348999 bytes)
40. Converting over to AiROCK, or installing with AiROCK is simple.  Just replace the switch wire with the AiROCK harness.  Then connect into the AiROCK system with it.
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41. Connect the SwayLOC solenoid to the AiROCK cable. DSC02907.JPG (357463 bytes)
42. Route the wire along the side of the fuse box. DSC02892.JPG (328502 bytes)
43. Connect the power and ground wire to the fuse box and a convenient ground. I choose the battery. A 13mm Combo wrench will handle the battery terminal and a DSC02890.JPG (335057 bytes) DSC02891.JPG (331138 bytes)
44. Run the supplied air brake line from the fitting on the SwayLOC arm (rotate fitting to the up position) to the solenoid.  Allow enough slack in the in the line for rotation of the arm.  Then from the solenoid connect into the Onboard Air System with the supplied fitting and remaining hose. 
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45. Connect a supplied air connection to the SwayLOC solenoid. DSC02911.JPG (339482 bytes)
46.  Testing of the SwayLOC is simple.  If you have the switched version, ensure you have adequate air pressure, and turn the switch on.  The SwayLOC may disengage immediately, if not, drive a little, the SwayLOC will disengage when the pressure releases off of the locking mechanism.  Recheck to verify that it disengaged.  Reengagement is as simple as turning off the switch and checking to see if it reengaged.  It may not lock in initially, but will as soon as the arms line up.


  N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
SwayLOC arm bolts   40 --

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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