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Ractive Air Filter

Ractive Air Filter

Part #:

After trying to adjust the position of the OBA system a few times to tighten up the belt correctly I decided that it was time to get rid of the stock air box. I needed to find something that would fit on the stock air tube, and also have a shield around it. I did find some cone filter in the stores, but they were all exposed elements. Well thanks to my neighbor and his little car (we figured it out that his roof was within the ramp limit of my jeeps articulation, though he wasn’t impressed by that fact), I found a suitable air filter for it. His was by Ractive, but I found a similar one at Pepboys by AMP. I may eventually see about getting one of the cool shields from Ractive, but for now I’ll live with the clear one.

Additional Parts:

Tools Needed:
Flat Tip Screwdriver
10mm Combo Wrench
5/16" Socket
Ratchet
Extension
Hacksaw

 

Installation:
1. Remove Air Box
2. Loosen the hose clamp holding the air tube to the air box. This requires a flat tip screwdriver.

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3. Pull air tube off air box top and unclamp top of air box. Set aside.

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4. Remove air filter
5. Remove 3 bolts holding the air box to fender. This will require a 5/16” socket, extension and a 10mm Combo wrench for the nuts underneath.
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6. Remove bottom of air box. (Recommend putting the box back together so you don’t lose any parts)
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7. Disconnect the crank case vent line from the air tube.
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8. Loosen the hose clamp holding the air tube to the throttle body. This requires a flat tip screwdriver. Remove the air tube.
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9. Pull air tube off throttle body.
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10. Cut the flexible section off of the air tube with a hacksaw. (put this section with the air box) I would recommend cutting it about ½” back from the edge of the flexible section if for some reason you want to later reinstall the air box, you can put a rubber coupling on this section to join it with the stock air tube.
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11. Insert new cone filter over end of air tube and tighten hose clamp. This requires a flat tip screwdriver.
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12. Position air tube back onto throttle body and tighten hose clamp. This requires a flat tip screwdriver.
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13. Connect crank case vent line onto air tube.
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14. The tube is ridged enough that it supports the weight of the filter.
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Driving impressions: At idle and low speed there is a definite whistle under the hood. The one thing I noticed is at 35mph in 5th gear I would get an engine lug before, but now it’s all but gone away. Yes, I can run 35mph, 5th gear, stock 4.11’s, on 35’s now.

This page last updated: 21-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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