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MORE motor mount lift

MORE Motor Mount Lift

Part #:

The reason I decided on getting this motor mount lift over the other ones was the quality involved.  I had seen the other ones and wasn't to confident with their strength.  These come with a welded web inside, and rubber bushing that is similar to factory standards.  I won't say it is like the factory bushing, since it doesn't look anything like it, but it is really quiet and doesn't transmit the vibrations like the poly bushing do.   The bushing actually looks like the same ones that are used in the control arms.

Additional Parts:
Tools Needed:
18mm combo wrench
18mm socket
15mm socket
11mm socket
Long extensions for the sockets

The Motor Mounts that I had came off my '99 TJ.  Now they were almost brand new, I had only bought them in August 2002.  I was starting another round of modifications and had installed these in preparation to do a new NV4500/Atlas II when I was told that I could buy a Rubicon instead.  Okay twist my arm.  I had been reading the boards seeing that lots of people were having problems installing these and that raised a little concern.  I did have some rubbing on my '99, but that was an installation issue.  I realized from the boards that the problem was centered on the passenger side.  I had looked at how the vehicle was and made decisions on where to start. Being an engineer and working on ships and jet engines I am used to trying to figure out how to get things in and out of tight places. Here is what I did.  Now M.O.R.E's instruction have you start on the drivers side.

First thing was to throw out the directions. Okay I did this before, so I pretty much know them. I started on the passenger side. I had noticed that this engine bracket had an oval hole for the attachment bolt. The factory mount was as far out as it could go in this hole. This is where I figure the problem was. I did this install by myself in 2 hours, which included looking for my 18mm socket, taking pictures, measuring and generally taking my time with it.  I did follow the directions when it came to taking off the fan shroud.  I put in a body lift at the same time so I didn't have to drill.  The engine lifted fine with a jack under the oil pan.  I dented the oil pan slightly when I lifted it, but that was my fault for not paying attention.



You will need to remove the fan shroud from the radiator if you have not already done a body lift.
1. Make certain engine is cool and remove the radiator bottle.  You need to remove the hose from the nipple right below the radiator cap, then push in on the bottle as you pull up.
Remove water bottle locking tab lift bottle out
2. Then remove the 4 bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator with a mm socket. fan shroud screw fan shroud screw


Installation: (My way!)

Caution: Place block of wood between floor jack and bottom of oil pan.
Comparison shot: mount comparison
1. Loosen both Motor Mount to Engine Bracket Bolts. This helps to allow the engine to rotate up.  Also loosen the Transmission to skid nuts, this will allow the engine to slide around. Motor mount
2. Brace engine with floor jack and piece of wood under the oil pan.  Be careful that you do not get the wood on to the oil drain area.  
3. Remove Factory Mount on passenger side. driver side mount
4. Install M.O.R.E. mount on to frame bracket. new more mount in
5. Torque lower nut tight, being careful to keep the mount centered on the frame extension. You will not be able to tighten this nut later. I was able to get a stubby open ended wrench in there after the driver side was done and check the tightness.  You might be able to get a thin wall socket on it, but I didn't have one to try. difficult nut
6. Now to the driver side. You can do this two ways. I choose to remove the entire assembly, and then undo the mount to engine bolt, but you could take the nut off the bolt first. Either way if you have A/C the engine bracket is coming off.  Having no A/C compressor should allow you to just pull the bolt out forwards and skip taking the engine bracket off.
7. Remove lower nut from mount.  
8. Remove 3 bolts from engine bracket.  
9. Remove upper bolt from mount. At this point if you choose to remove the nut earlier you can rotate the mount and bracket to get the mount to bracket bolt out. Otherwise the entire assembly will slide down along the side of the engine and pull out through the bottom. driver side mount assembly
10. Remove the mount to engine bolt. I tried the reinstall the assembly with this bolt back in the correct direction, but I would have needed 3 people to do this, so I gave up. I didn't figure it was that important to put the bolt in from the forward direction, besides it is much easier to bolt the engine bracket to the engine, motor mount to the frame and then line up the mount to frame bolt.  I am going to keep an eye on it to see.
11. Reinstall the engine bracket. reinstall engine mount
12. Install and snug the bolts on Motor Mount.  
13. Lift Engine and reinstall the Driver side Motor Mount to Engine bolt from the rear.  
14. Install Passenger side Motor mount to engine bracket bolt. I needed to tap the side of the mount to get it to line up perfectly.
15. Install nut and snug that bolt, lower the engine, but do not take all the weight off the jack.
16. Tighten all the motor mount bolts. new driver side mount
17. Now back to passenger side. Put a big screwdriver between the engine bracket and motor mount. Pry gently, and tighten up the Mount to engine bolt when it is all the way out in oval.  This will give you the clearance between the engine bracket and the frame bracket. position adjustment
18. Tighten the Driver side mount to engine bolt.  
19. Tighten the transmission to skid nuts.  

I ran this around, and hit the construction site down the road from me. No bangs, no contact, nothing, believe me I tried to get it to hit. Nice and quiet, it appears to have plenty of clearance all around. I suspect that the oval hole is the problem. Now I don't feel like turning around taking it all out just to follow the directions from M.O.R.E to prove this, call me lazy.

I have since done this lift a couple more times and found that you can remove both mounts, install the new ones and then lift the engine up to insert the mount to engine bolts.  It was actually easier this way.  Installation of the JKS Budget MML and Tri-County Gear MML follow the same basic outline, only difference is the MML pieces.


  N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Support Cushion Bolts/Nuts  40 30 -
Support Cushion Thru-Bolt  48 35 -

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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