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JKS Quicker Disconnects

JKS Quicker Disconnects

Part #: JKS 2000 and 2001

We all know that we disconnect to get a little more flex off-road.  Well we also give up a little bit of stability when we do.  I was willing to live with this for now.  Over the years I had different disconnects on the Jeeps that I had owned.  I got used to the clanking, general loose feel, and how hard they were to operate.  I wanted something simple that I could get on and off without trying to get the little pin through the holes.  Something that was quiet and rugged.   JKS fit what I was looking for.   Now that I had moved up in size on the lift I needed the longer JKS "Quicker Disconnects".  I did notice that these disconnects fully screwed in were the exact same length as my extend links that I had.  So if you are thinking that you might want to go to a larger lift in the future, you could get these vice the smaller ones.  I left the right up the same as the old one just in case you are starting from scratch.

Additional Parts:
Anti-seize
Wheel Bearing Grease
Red Lock-tite
Tools Needed: 
19mm combo wrench
18mm combo wrench
17mm combo wrench
15mm combo wrench
T-55 Torx
6mm Allen wrench
Gear puller
5/16" x 18 thread tap
1/4" drill bit

 

Installation:
1. Now it was time to get the old links off.  I figured with just 2,800 miles on the Rubi this would be easy.  Okay, I was wrong.  I used the T-55 and 18mm wrench to get the bottom bolts out of the link.  Then I used the 15mm to get the top nuts off.  Now to just tap out the link and start installing the others.  Hmmm, didn't quite go that way.  There are a couple of tricks to getting this link out of the sway bar.  One is to take the sway bar completely off the Jeep, turn it upside down on a block of wood and pound on the bar.  This usually only takes about one tap to free them up.  Well since I have my winch on this was not a possibility.  Another way is just to tap on the side of the sway bar and it will fall right out.  Okay I've never been able to get this to work, but I have heard that it does.  I'm just not that lucky.  One more way is the old pickle fork and pop it free that way, but I wanted to keep the joint intact and undamaged.  Okay so you need the right tool for the job, but I didn't have the puller that was called for, but I did have a gear puller.  I ended up tightening the gear puller so tight that it squealed at me.  I tried all the ways I knew to get it to let loose before resorting to the "tighten the &#$! out of it" method.  When it did come free it shot across the garage floor.  I think they were a little tight.  All right now I have everything out and am glad that no one was standing in front of end link when it let loose.

Stock drop link

2. I had laid out all the parts so that I could get easy access to them.  Since these being installed after the RE lift was, I was able to get a quick measurement as to the length and set the links to that measurement.  The JKS links were slightly longer so it was going to put my anti-sway bar up slightly.   I had extended these to get  within the best range of 13 up - 3 down.  Once you get the length set tighten down the lock nut with a 15/16" wrench.  I had to extend these out to 11" between centers. JKS Parts
3. I then installed the U-straps on top of the anti-sway bar.  Make certain that the threaded portion of the U-strap for the upper bushing is on the inside.  Use a 6mm allen wrench and 17mm wrench to tighten up the bolt.  I also installed the pins on to the bottom holders.  I used a thin phillips screwdriver inserted into the retaining pin hole to hold it steady while I tightened up the bolt with a 19mm wrench. upper yoke
4. I did grease the links and rotate the bushing to spread out the grease before installing them.  I also noticed that the grease fittings on the JKS links did not have check balls in them.  I will see how long the caps last off-road before deciding if I will purchase different fittings.  I now installed the links in place.  I positioned them grease fittings out so that they would be easy to service.  I put red loc-tite on the upper bolt and tightened it down with the 6mm allen head.  I originally tried an experiment with the other side having no loc-tite.  It remained tight.

UPDATE:
I haven't had any problems with the caps so far after 4,000 miles.  They stay on and protect the opening very well.

 

Disconnect installed
5. The only thing left is to figure out exactly where you want to drill your frame and install the storage pins.  I still need to do this, but for now I will just zip tie them up and out of the way.  I wanted to install my lift first and see where the bigger tires sit.  These are longer than my previous ones and the pins will mount much further forward so I do not believe that the tires will interfere.

Parts Breakdown

 

A

U-Strap

20/04US

B

10mm x 35mm x 1.5mm Button Head Bolt (Comes with A)

20/35UB

C

15mm NyLock Nut (Comes with B)

40167

D

10mm x 45mm x 1.5mm Button Head Bolt

20/45CB

E

1.25” Aluminum Sleeve

20/05AS

F

Stainless Steel Pin

20/02SS

G

Spherical Bushing (Comes With N or O)

00475

H

Click Pin

20/01CP

I

Grease Zerk Cap (Comes with N or O)

64-14

J

Press In Grease Zerk (Comes with N or O)

5546072

K

½” NF, Flange Lock Nut (Comes with F)

37375

L

Offset Polyurethane Spacer (Comes with F)

3212

M

5/8” Jam Nut (Comes with N)

36264

N

Male Threaded end for 2002 Model QD

20/MS

N

Male Threaded end for 2000 Model QD

20/MM

N

Male Threaded end for 2001 Model QD

20/ML

O

Female Threaded end for 2002 Model QD

20/FS

O

Female Threaded end for 2000 Model QD

20/FM

O

Female Threaded end for 2001 Model QD

20/FL

P

Flat Washer (Comes with B)

33859

Q

Storage Pin

20/03SP

R

5/16” Allen Bolts (Comes with QD)

23259

 

  N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
RETAINER AND BUSHING BOLTS 54 40 -
JKS UPPER U-STRAP TO SWAY BAR BOLT (FACTORY) 61 45 -
JKS UPPER CONNECTION BOLT - 40 -
JKS LOWER PIN (FACTORY) 95 70 -

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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