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Part #: 6"
Intro
How many times have you been on a trail and said “If I only had
a little more ground clearance I wouldn’t have gotten stuck,”
or been off camber with a tree or rock threatening to do bodily harm to
your Jeep. How about that Highway ride after you finally managed to get
the clearance that you needed. Remember that garage that you used to park
in occasionally to work on the Jeep that now the Jeep can’t get
into, and of course let us not forget the significant other that doesn’t
really enjoy climbing up into the Jeep.
How would you like to be able to change the height of your jeep, tilt the jeep away from that obstacle, have 2 different heights 1 for off road, 1 for on road and have the ability to lower the jeep to a sensible level for the significant other all at the push of a button? If your answer is no, then don’t bother reading any further. If your still interested then AiROCK™ by Off Road Only may be for you.
Discussion
AiROCK™ is a computer controlled air spring system that replaces
the coils in your Jeep. The air springs come in two sizes, a 4”
and a 6” size. The kits include 4 springs, 4 shocks, 4 height sensors,
AiROCK™ Control Unit (ACU), 1 dash mounted controller, a wiring
harness and air tubing. Since this is only a coil replacement system you
will still need the suspension system and air source (typically Onboard
Air) for the system.
AiROCK™ offers some distinct advantages over coil spring systems. The biggest advantage is that the user controls the height, pitch and roll of the vehicle with a just the touch of a button. Another great advantage of air springs over coils is that the air springs do not rebound off of an obstacle. This allows for a ride that is smooth over obstacles without that sudden spring action that could throw your jeep past it’s center of gravity and out of control. One other advantage is Air springs do not sag over time. If you want 4” of height, you get it, even when you add in extra weight, the system just puts more air in the bags to maintain the height. You also gain the ability to change tire size and only have to bump up the height on the springs. We have all rode in vehicles that were really tall just to clear the tires underneath them off road. Well with AiROCK™ you can do that and still maintain a lower ride height on road.
The vehicles speed and the height of all for air springs are monitored
to allow for total control of your vehicle. AiROCK™ has 3 operating
modes. These are “Off-road”, “On-Road” and “Freeway”.
Off-road you have complete control of your height and vehicles angle.
You can control the center of gravity by lowering the vehicle, or raise
the vehicle to clear an obstacle. You can rock the vehicle to the side
to avoid that tree or rock on the side of the trail that is always catching
your windshield frame or body part. You can even raise or lower the front
and rear ends to allow for you to get up or down that obstacle. Most importantly
you have some control of your center of gravity.
On-road the system maintains your stability by automatically compensating
for body roll and pitch. An example would be during a panic stop the sensors
would automatically note the sudden down force on the front springs and
pressurize to stop the front from nose diving.
Freeway the vehicle automatically lowers itself for a more stable ride.
The system will monitor the springs and assist with roll control by pressurizing
springs on either side of the vehicle depending on drivers reactions to
the road conditions.
One other advantage is an optional feature, when activated, that automatically
lowers the vehicle to the bump stops to facility getting in and out easier.
Some people are interested in how much flex will an AiROCK™ kit
achieve. The system will flex comparable to the coil suspensions. The older
kits did lack a little bit of flex, but with the new Walker Evans shocks
that issue has gone away. Off Road Only is constantly listening to the
owners of AiROCK™ and improving the system.
26-Apr-2018th this kit will bring a few things to light right
away. The first thing you will notice will be the air noise from the solenoids,
you will get used to it after a little while. Though I am assuming that
you can actually hear them over the tires. Once you start driving you
will notice the softness of the ride, almost like you are riding on air.
The biggest change you will notice comes when you drive fast enough for
the system to shift to freeway mode. The suspension will now react to
turns, stopping and even bumpy road surfaces.
Off-road is where the suspension really shines. Bumps are soaked up, you don’t rebound off of obstacles. Those trees and rocks that you used to have to avoid, now slide right by as you tilt the jeep away from them. I was able to run the same trails with both springs and the AiROCK™ suspension. The AiROCK™ made the trail almost too comfortable to drive. The most enjoyable comment came after the word about a low hanging branch came over the radio. The ability to drive right up to the branch and hit all down on the AiROCK™ so that I could drive under it received the comment “Now that’s cheating.”
I would have to say the feature on AiROCK™ that allows for the most fun with the kids and even some admiration from the local low-rider club is the demo mode feature. The mode will put the AiROCK™ through it’s range of motions and will gain a lot of attention.
I purchased my kit through Mac at www.macs4x4.com and Steve at Off Road Only. Mac and Steve are awesome to do business with. The kit is a technical installation and Off Road Only provides a nice installation manual. Manual is available on the web site. I would not recommend installing this kit unless you have at least a moderate skill in mechanical work. Incorrect installation can be very expensive.
The installation if for a 6” AiROCK on a Rubicon Express Long Arm Suspension. It shows the older Edlebrock Shocks vice the new Walker Evan’s.
Off Road Only
www.offroadonly.com
info@offroadonly.com
(651) 644-2323
I had always been very interested in the ability to control the aspects of a jeep from in the cab. The ability to tilt and lean, correct when off camber, lift the jeep when you get high centered, or lower it for better riding on the highway. So I decided to install a 6" AiROCK suspension into the Jeep. This write up is currently a rough draft but since a few people wanted to see it, I decided to put it up a little early or in this case since I'm far behind on write ups, a little late. This was actually installed last year in 2004.
Additional
Parts: (4) 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" Grade 8 Hex Bolts Anti-Seize |
Tools
Needed: |
This lift kit will require you to support the entire Jeep by the frame during install. Due to the air springs requiring pressurization prior to the axles supporting the vehicles weight. The shocks will withstand the weight of the Jeep for a short period of time. I recommend jacking and supporting the front end first then lifting the rear and dropping the vehicle in the reverse order.
AiROCK Installation Short Arm
AiROCK Installation Long Arm
ACU Operation Manual
Compressor Service Manual
AiROCK
Height Sensors |
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1.
Unpack the four height sensors and the 4 clamps for the arms. |
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2. The height sensors will have
a colored sticker on them. These stickers designate the
position of the height sensor on the Jeep. The wire on the
B terminal of the 3 plug connector should match the color of the
sticker. |
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3.
The Height sensors for the Rubicon Express Long Arm TJ suspension
systems have been designed to utilize the outer two bolts that hold
the outer frame rail brace to the frame. The bolts run through
the frame horizontal to the ground. These bolts should have
been installed so that the nuts are on the inside of the frame,
if not you will need to remove the bolt and install it properly.
Use a 3/4" Socket and Combo Wrench to remove and tighten these
nuts.
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4. Remove the nut from the bolt and install the AiROCK sensor bracket for that position. The bracket should rest on the top edge of the frame rail to help position it and prevent it from moving. | |||
Note: The front and rear arms will have the sensor arm (Purple
anodized parts) pointed towards the front of the vehicle.
The front arms are the top 2. |
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5.
Open up the 4 sensor linkage mounts with a flat tip screwdriver
(otherwise know as a hose clamp) |
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6.
Place the stainless link bracket over the lower control arm and
clamp to the control arm. I found that placing the bracket
on the outside of the front control arms and on the inside of the
rear control arms aligned the sensor arms to the best position. |
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7.
Adjust the bracket so that it is sitting against the Jam nut on
the control arm. |
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8. Rotate the bracket so that it aligns with the sensor arm. Ensure that the sensor arm is free from binding and able to move freely. Tighten the control arm bracket using either a straight tipped screwdriver or a 5/16" socket and short extension. | |||
9. Tighten the bolt attaching the sensor arm to the control arm bracket using a 5/32" Allen wrench and a 3/8" Combo Wrench. Install the bolts so that the nut is on the bracket side. |
AiROCK
Wiring Harness |
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1.
Lay out the wiring harness and double check all the wires to make
certain that none of them have been damaged in transit. The
cables are nicely wrapped, but it's always good to double check
before you install this harness. |
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2.
The harness is designed for a certain layout on the Jeep.
The main Junction point (center of picture, wrapped) should be positioned
at the top center of the firewall, under the hood (most Jeeps have
a mounting tang at this point). Position the harness behind
it so that it will remain in place. |
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3. The Controller cable will be run through the firewall. You will find a plug at the bottom of the firewall that comes through behind the console. Pull this out. | |||
4. Cut a slit through the plug and feed the controller cable through it. I left it free until I was ready to route the cable through the dash to the controller location. | |||
5. Route the H1, H3, H4 cable over to the driver side. This cable will run down along the driver side frame rail and loop to the passenger side on top of the gas tank cross member. I routed it as far over to the side of the engine compartment that I could. You want to keep these wires away from the heat of the Catalytic Converters that are on that side. | |||
5a. Coming down the Driver side. Connect the H1 sensor. I went right down past the side of the box that connects the fender to the firewall. | |||
5b. Looping over the gas tank cross member. Connect the H3 sensor. | |||
5c. Connected. This is the H4 Sensor. I zip tied the cable to the sensor. I am trying to find some small cable holders that will stick to the height sensor bracket so that I can hold the wire better. | |||
6. Now route the single H2 height sensor lead over to the Passenger side and down to the Right Front (Green II) Height Sensor. | |||
7.
Route the 12volt Connection over to the battery. Remove the
fuse and store it in a safe location. I decided to take a
tap straight off of the power distribution box. I used a 10mm
socket to remove one of the bolts and attach the positive (red)
cable to the box. I then attached the negative (black) cable
to the battery negative terminal. |
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8. I decided to zip tie the (2) Aux Input connectors and the (1) Aux Data Connector together and leave them over by the vehicle computer. | |||
9. Now route the ACU cable over to the driver side and see how much room you have to locate your ACU in. There is plenty of cable to reach almost every place on that side that you can use. I did check the fit of the cable into the ACU. Note: Placing the ACU on your unprotected fender does lead to scratch's. | |||
Speed
Harness |
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1. Lay out the wiring harness and double check all the wires to make certain that none of them have been damaged in transit. The cables are nicely wrapped, but it's always good to double check before you install this harness. | |||
2. Locate the speed sensor connector on top of the transfer case. One side goes to the speed sensor located in the tail shaft section of the transfer case. Pull the red lock button over to the side and then unclip the connector. | |||
3. Install the Speed Harness between the connectors and zip tie up in place. Now route the harness along the transfer case and transmission, then up along the firewall. | |||
4. I did have plenty of cable left over, so I could have probably routed it along the frame rail, but decided not to undo it all so that I could see if I did. I just coiled up the excess cable and zip tied it in place. Now connect that other end of the harness into the Speed Harness connector on the Main cable |
Mounting
the ACU |
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1.
I needed a convienent spot to mount the ACU out of the way.
Now since I had taken up most of the space on the fender I couldn't
mount it there, but nothing resided in the ABS tray on the driver side
so coincidently that became the home of the ACU.
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2.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the tray in place with a 13mm Socket,
a long extension, and a 13mm combo wrench.
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3.
I positioned the ACU in the center of the skid and installed the
screws. They are self tapers so all you need to do is drill
them down with a 1/4" socket. I used a ruler to line
up the ACU. |
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4.
Now reinstall the tray into the Jeep.
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AiROCK
Controller |
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1.
Remove the center dash surround by first lifting the defroster cover
and removing the 2 phillips head screws that hold the surround in
place, then just pull the surround away from the dash. |
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2.
You will need to feed the control cable up behind the Heater/AC
controls and the Radio. This is not an easy task. If
you need additional room you can remove the radio and the Heater/AC
control panel. Note: The radio has a nut on the backside that
needs to be removed to pull it out. |
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3.
Pull the cable up the backside and out. I pulled all the access
cable in from the engine compartment. Remember you have the
exhaust on the other side so to much slack in the cable could cause
it to touch or get close enough to the exhaust to melt the cable.
I just tucked the unneeded cable down behind the dash. |
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4.
Now reassemble the dash. |
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5.
I did not mount the controller until I was able to test the system
out and verify operation. The double sided tape that holds
the controller to the dash is very hard to remove, so if for some
reason your controller is bad you will have a pain getting it back
off. Note: I did have a controller that the controls had accidentally
been reversed left to right on it but I knew about this before the
install, and had a corrected one before I was even ready to put
it on the street. |
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6.
Once the system is tested remove the double sided tape from the
bottom of the controller and position on top of the center dash
surround. |
Rear
Anti-Sway Bar Links |
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Off
Road Only included these heim jointed rear anti-sway bar extensions. |
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1.
Assemble the links. Screw the nuts onto the Heim joints.
Adjust the nut so that it sit 1/2" in from the end. |
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2.
Screw the heim's into the center section and tighten the Jam nuts
with (2) 3/4" Combo Wrench's. Note: Anti-seize the threads
on the Heim's before inserting into the center section. This
will minimize the corrosion due to dissimilar metals. |
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3.
Remove the rear anti-sway bar links. The top requires a 18mm
socket, the bottom a 15mm socket and 18mm Combo Wrench. |
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Here is the 3 links for comparison. |
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4.
Install the Links to the upper mount point on the frame. For
these you will need the longer bolts that you purchased above for
it to fit right. Insert 1 bolt through the heim, then lock
washer, then insert the bolt through the bracket on the frame.
Carefully install a nut on the bolt. This requires some patients,
and care since there is a hole that leads into the frame behind
this bracket. You will not be able to get the nut back if
it goes in that hole. You will need a 9/16" Combo Wrench
and Socket.
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5.
Do not connect to the anti-sway bar yet. But I recommend putting
the hardware through the heim so that you don't lose it. |
Front
Air Springs |
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You may need to remove your front anti-sway bar links. | |||
1. Remove front Springs | |||
2. If you have the front spring clips installed, remove these otherwise it's really hard to pull the spring out. | |||
3. Remove the front bump stop | |||
4. Remove the bolt holding the cup on. This requires a 15mm Socket and extension. | |||
5. Remove the Spring Isolator. You may need to twist the isolator to break it free. | |||
6. Measure down 2" From the upper spring seat and mark a line. | |||
7. Cut off upper bump stop stub as shown. | |||
8. Remove Nylock nut. Remove the front lower mount from the front air spring assemblies. | |||
9. Place AiROCK lower mount on lower spring pad as shown. Mark the lower spring pad for drilling. | |||
10. Dill a 1/2" Hole in the lower mount. Be careful, there may be a space between the welded spacer (Rubicon model) and the top of the spring pad. Debur the hole making certain that the pad it flat. | |||
11.
Verify that the plate sits flat on the spring pad and that the holes
line up. |
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12.
Trip the web between the shock and the cut bump stop mount.
This is to prevent rubbing of the air bag on the point of the web,
that could cause a tear in the bag. A template is provided. |
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13. Remove upper front mount nut and washer (big metal plate). Test fit the air springs over the bump stop stub that you cut earlier to verify enough has been removed. | |||
14. The driver side is the easier of the two to install. Place the Air Spring assembly on spring pad. Install Nylock nut, but do not tighten. On the passenger side I just set the air spring assembly on the spring pad. | |||
15. With a floor jack, lift the axle and guide the 2 upper assemblies into and around the cut off bump stop stubs. | |||
16. Rotate air spring assembly until air fitting is towards the front of the vehicle. | |||
17.
Install washer (big metal plate) and Nylock nut. TIghten nut
with a 3/4" Deep well socket. |
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18.
Now remove the bolt holding the front track bar to the axle.
You will need room to thread the Nylock nut up and into the cavity
below the spring pad.
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19.
Unscrew the bolt with a 15mm socket. You won't need to pull
the bolt out all the way, just enough to remove the nut and clear
the space behind the track bar. |
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20.
Using the supplied 6" piece of 7/16" clear tubing place
the nylock part of the nut over the end of the tube. Some
kits my already have a spare nut installed on the tube.
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21.
Feed the nut up into the cavity and install on bottom of air spring.
Utilize the hose to start the Nylock nut on the lower right mount.
This takes some patients to accomplish. |
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22.
Feed a 3/4" crows foot wrench and small extension up into the
cavity to tighten down the nut. Do not fully tighten.
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Rear
Air Springs |
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1. Remove Rear Springs | |||
2. Remove the Rear bump stop | |||
3. Remove the bolt holding the cup on. This requires a 15mm Socket and extension. | |||
4. Remove the Spring Isolator. You may need to twist the isolator to break it free. Some TJ's may have come with a lower mount isolator also, so check the lower mount for the same. | |||
5. Clean off both mount surfaces. Mine had a lot of dirt caked into this area. You need to have a flat mount surface for the air springs. Check the bolt for the rear track bar at the frame mounting point. Ensure that the bolt does not protrude more than 1/4" thru the nut. If it does, cut the bolt flush with the nut before installing the right rear spring. This will prevent the bolt from rubbing a hole into the air spring. | |||
6. Drill the upper bump stop thread with a 3/8" Drill bit. | |||
7. Mark the center of the lower spring pad and drill out to 1/2". | |||
8. Remove the Nylock nuts from the top and bottom mounting studs on the air spring assemblies. | |||
9. Test fit the air spring assembly onto the lower mount to ensure that the bolt clears the axle assembly underneath. I had to trim both of mine for clearance. | |||
10. Install rear air spring with the wedge of the upper mount pointed towards the front of the vehicle. | |||
11. Install washer and nylock nut on top of upper spring pad to hold air spring assembly. Tighten with a 9/16" Combo Wrench. | |||
12. Maneuver, rear axle up with the floor jack to insert the lower air spring mounting stud through the hole in the lower spring pad. Install lower nut with 3/4" Combo Wrench. Do not tighten yet. | |||
Installed. | |||
Final
Steps |
1.
Route airlines from ACU to individual air bags. Insert airline
into fitting, once air line is inserted into fitting, pull on airline
to seat seal. If airline is held captive your connection is
complete. I followed the routing of the wires for the two
rear air springs, and ran the fronts down through the large hole
in the fender well near the air springs. |
2.
Recheck all your torques on your bolts. Install rear anti-sway
bar drop brackets. At this point the only Nuts that should
still be loose are the 4 lower air spring nuts and the bolt for
the front track bar to axle bracket. |
3. Ensure that all electrical connections are made. |
4.
You need to be ready to pressurize the system at this point.
Reinstall all tires and remove vehicle from Jack stand. Lower
vehicle slowly down onto the bump stops for the shocks. |
5.
Turn vehicle on and pressurize air system. |
6.
Install the ACU fuse and verify that the controller display lights
up with the "AiROCK" message. |
7.
You will need to scroll through the setup to find the test air spring
selection. Refer to operators manual for further information. |
8.
Pressurize the Air Springs to 25psi and check for leaks in the system.
I recommend turning off the Jeep once you have all springs to 25psi. |
9.
Tighten all lower air spring nylock nuts. |
10. Reinstall front track bar bolt. |
11. Restart Jeep and proceed with air spring calibration. Note: Front anti-sway bar should be disco'd if using Quick disco's, or swayloc should be disengaged. |
Installing a new height sensor
This page last updated: 26-Apr-2018
Content
and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail, Ronald Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work. While I have spent many years working on mechanical systems, I am not an expert, nor do I pretend to be one. I hope these write ups have been useful to you.
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