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Part #: OGS 125
I had looked at a few of the Adjustable Front Track Bars for the Jeeps. I had pretty much narrowed it down to the Currie and the JKS (actually OGS) bars, when I realized that they were the same bar, just different prices. The main reason for these was the Johnny Joints and the ability to grease the frame attachment point just like the factory. The JKS (OGS) bar uses a rubber bushing at the axle end and a Johnny Joint at the Frame end. I am using the bar for 4" and up lift. It fits fine since the 3.5" RE springs actually net you a little bit more in height.
Additional
Parts: Anti-seize Grease
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Tools
Needed: Drill 9/16" drill bit 13/16" Combo Wrench 7/8" Combo Wrench 1 1/2" Combo Wrench 19mm Combo Wrench 15mm Socket Pliers Pickle fork Big Hammer |
REMOVAL (FSM instructions)
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball stud end at the
frame rail bracket.
(3) Use a universal puller tool to separate the track bar ball stud
from the frame rail bracket.
(4) Remove the bolt and flag nut from the axle bracket. Remove the
track bar.
As we can see the Factory Service Manual instructions are quite
detailed.
Axle
Centering:
Start by Jouncing the front of the vehicle a couple of times. (i.e.
make it go up and down). Then take a steel ruler (measuring
tape will work) and measure from the frame to the tire rim centered
above the axle. This measurement will give you the most accurate
distance for the following reasons. It negates most of the effect
of having the tires turned slightly, and the fact that the body does
not sit perfectly straight on top of the frame. I know mine
sits slightly off, but the measurements were talking about here are
not that big and that small difference will matter. Once you
have the difference in sides you will need to figure out how much
you need to lengthen or shorten the adj. track bar. If the Driver
sided (most likely) is larger than extend the track bar 1/2 the distance,
if the Passenger side is larger than shorten the track bar 1/2 the
distance.
N-m | Ft. Lbs. | In. Lbs. | |
BALL STUD NUT (FACTORY SETTING) | 81 | 60 | - |
BOLT AT THE AXLE BRACKET (FACTORY SETTING) |
47 | 40 | - |
9/16" BOLT (FRAME BRACKET) (JKS) | - | 85 | - |
AXLE MOUNT BOLT (JKS) | - | 50 | - |
JAM NUT (JKS) | REAL - REAL TIGHT |
This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008
Content
and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail, Ronald Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work. While I have spent many years working on mechanical systems, I am not an expert, nor do I pretend to be one. I hope these write ups have been useful to you.
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