|
Part #:
The reason I decided on getting this body lift over the other ones was the quality involved. I had a Prothane 1" lift on my old Jeep and didn't like it at all. The body felt vague on the frame when you cornered and on the trail. It was disconcerting at times. I eventually removed it from my other Jeep. I was able to see the JKS on a friends Jeep and discussed it with him. This is what sold me on JKS. 1 1/4" lift, this is more than any of the other ones out there at the moment and would give me just a little bit more when I lifted the gas tank up. They have a beveled edge on top to sit right in the same spot as the factory mount and not slide around, believe me I could feel the difference. The bottom is recessed 1/4 inch so the factory mount slides up inside for more stability. This kit also comes with extended snubbers for the front corners of your grill. Side note these are a real pain to get in. The final thing that sold me on them was the quality of manufacturing that went with it.
I had already installed the M.O.R.E. Motor Mount lift so I didn't have to worry about the fan shroud and skipped the steps for drilling new holes to remount the shroud The main reason I lifted the body was in preparations for a Kilby's gas tank skid, and hopefully someone's transmission skid.
Additional
Parts: Anti-seize |
Tools
Needed: 16mm socket 10mm socket 7/16" socket 7/16" combo wrench Floor Jack/ wood and a spacer |
A couple of notes before you begin this. The Gas Tank filler hose will be stretched even with the body back down on these mounts, so be careful as to how high you lift the rear of the Jeep. On the other side with the 2003's is the charcoal canister with it myriad of plastic hoses, these don't stretch, so once again you have something to be concerned with. The transfer case spacer may or may not be needed. I did a 1" Motor Mount Lift at the same time so didn't really need to put it in. I have since taken it out and only experience a slight up angle on the arm. With the bracket installed it was angled down. You will also need to disconnect the Fog Lights. The wiring is to short for it to remain in the stock location. What I did was just pull the clip out of the hole under the fender and leave it hang, I haven't hooked it on anything after many trips off road so I'm not to worried about it. I will eventually get the extensions for these and run the wiring to a safer location. Extension part # W82203245.
ADJUSTMENTS
- SHIFT LINKAGE
You may need to adjust the 4wd shifter just slightly. If you
need to do that you will notice a bolt and clamp on the shaft attached to
the shifter. Observe how the lever shifts and make a slight
adjustment based on that. I could probably adjust mine, but I will
let everything settle first. The easiest way to do this is to place
the shifter in 4wd high, loosen the bolt on the trunnion block and give it
a little jiggle. The block should reposition itself to the correct
position. Tighten it back up and give it a shot.
I did notice that it was a little harder to get the transmission into 2nd and 4th as the boot folds up, but not enough to worry about it since I am getting good engagement. The concern here is that if you are not engaging the gears all the way you will wear the teeth in the transmission since all the torque is now applied to a small area.
Here is the factory way. I would suggest trying this way also if
it doesn't adjust in 4wd High.
(1) Shift transfer case into 4L position.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Loosen lock bolt on adjusting trunnion.
(4) Be sure linkage rod slides freely in trunnion. Clean rod and
apply spray lube if necessary.
(5) Verify that transfer case range lever is fully engaged in 4L position.
(6) Tighten adjusting trunnion lock bolt.
(7) Lower vehicle.
n-m | Ft.
Lbs. |
In.
Lbs. |
|
MAIN FLOOR TO FRAME HOLD DOWN BOLT | 68 | 50 | - |
RADIATOR TO FRAME HOLD DOWN BOLT | 60 | 45 | - |
REAR FLOOR TO FRAME HOLD DOWN BOLT | 47 | 35 | - |
TRUNNION BLOCK LOCK BOLT | 8-14 | - | 72-120 |
TRANSFER CASE NUTS | 47 | 35 | - |
This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008
Content
and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail, Ronald Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work. While I have spent many years working on mechanical systems, I am not an expert, nor do I pretend to be one. I hope these write ups have been useful to you.
All trademarked names & logos are property of their respective owners
This site is in no way associated with FCA.
Jeep is a registered trademark of FCA.