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Medic Engine Skid

Medic Engine Skid

Part #:

I had previously installed an engine skid from Jeep Medic Fabrications on my last Rubicon and since I really liked how strong it was I would pick up another one for this LJ project. This was also installed with the raised transfer case skid this time.  I was nice enough to relieve Jerry from Jeep Medic Fabrications of both pieces while out at Moab in 2005. Though I think shipping would have been cheaper than the cost of my gas mileage. These are some very stout pieces of metal. Now this skid is very well built and is priced very affordable for what is offered.  The additional neat thing is that it mates perfectly to his belly up transmission skid.  The directions sent with the skid work perfectly.

Additional Parts:
Anti-seize
Tools Needed:
Ratchet
9/16" Socket
9/16" Wrench
Floor jacket (for convenience)

 

Installation:
Here is what comes in the kit. The new packaging is more than adequate for the skid, but I kind of miss taking about the old crates that they would come in.
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The kit has gone through a little revision since the last time I installed one. The driver side bracket has changed so you no longer need to remove the motor mount bolt, it now just bolts into the frame bracket like on the passenger side. The new driver side bracket is on the left.
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1. Install the driver side bracket. You will need the bracket, 2 carriage bolts, 2 lock washers, and 2 nuts. Start by placing the 2 carriage bolts in the drivers frame mount for engine. This can be a little bit of a pain getting your fingers into the opening and carefully putting the bolts through the holes. Place the mounting bracket with the holes at the bottom, the tab towards the engine. Use a lock washer and nut and tighten to 35ft-lbs of torque.
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2. Install the passenger side bracket. You will need the bracket, 2 carriage bolts, 2 lock washers, and 2 nuts. Start by placing the 2 carriage bolts in the passenger frame mount for engine. This can be a little bit of a pain getting your fingers into the opening and carefully putting the bolts through the holes. Place the mounting bracket with the holes at the bottom, the brackets lip should be towards the front. Use a lock washer and nut and tighten to 35ft-lbs of torque.
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3. Take the longer of the 2 angle iron pieces and place that on the front side of the driver bracket with a supplied 3/8 carriage bolt and, slotted side down. Keep it loose for now. Take the shorter of the 2 angle iron pieces and place it with another carriage bolt hand tight for now. Slotted side up. DSC03625
4. Now collect the remaining parts which will be the engine skid, 4 carriage bolts, 4 lock washers, 2 flat washers, and 4 nuts. The 2 flat washers will only be used if you are bolting this skid up to the stock skid plate.
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5. I lifted the skid with a floor jack and bolted up the front supports.  Dsc01969.jpg (184981 bytes)
6. Lift your engine skid to your tranny skid and place the carriage bolts from bottom up and hand tighten with washers and nuts. DSC03629
7. Next align the front angle Brackets with the carriage bolts and hand tighten as well. Now the medic skid comes with 2 sets of holes drilled in it. Determining which holes to use will depend on if you have a motor mount lift or not. With a motor mount lift, you will use the bottom holes on the front of the skid. With out a motor mount lift you will use the top mounting holes.   Once again it's carriage bolt, lock washer, nut, loosely installed.
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8. Push the engine skid back as far as possible. Now it is time to check for exhaust clearances, and alignment with the oil Drain on your engine. Once everything is aligned and checked tighten all nuts to 35 ft-lbs. Here is what it looks like installed. DSC03635

 

  N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
All Carriage bolts   35  

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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