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Skyjacker shifter bracket

Skyjacker Shifter Relocation Bracket

Part #: JSRB231A

I can't count the number of times that I have either popped out of 4 low, or had troubles getting it into 4 low.  Luckily I haven't experienced the headache of having the rods pop out of the little grommets, but I know that it was only an inevitability after putting in the body lift and the motor mount lift.  It had gotten harder to shift, so I knew it was time.  Now I had recently helped install one of these on a 2002 TJ, so I had experience with the little headaches that go along with it.  One thing of note is that the Transfer case shifter lever is pointed up while on the 231's it points down.  So to solve these possible headaches and make my shifting easier I decided to install Skyjackers Transfer Case Shifter Relocation Bracket.  I picked this over the Advanced Adaptors, because I liked how solid this one was, and didn't like the fact that the AA bracket only replaced the body mount, but left the flimsy transfer case bracket alone.  The part number for the Skyjacker bracket is JSRB231A.  This is the bracket that was normally used for the Auto tranny, but is now used for both.  231M was discontinued. 

Additional Parts:
None
Tools Needed:
Pliers
Long Flat tip screwdriver
10mm socket
1/2" Socket
13mm Combo wrench
9/16" Combo wrench
1/2" Combo wrench
Dremel with cutting wheel/ or equivalent

 

Installation:

Here is what all the parts look like. I preassembled it to check the bore on the bracket. Some of these were made incorrectly and the parts don't line up. We did install one that was off, it was a little tight, but still worked.
Shifter Bracket 
1. Installation is simpler than the instructions make it appear.  The first thing you need to do is remove the body bracket.  Lift up the carpet on the driver side and you will see (4) 10mm bolts.  Remove these and the bracket will be free underneath.  Now slide under the Jeep and pull out the bracket.  Be careful of the rubber boot on the shaft, mine had a spring and ended up in my face when I popped the bracket free. 
body bolts   body bracket
2. Now the skyjacker instructions want you to pry the rod (torque shaft rod) from the transfer case range lever.  I just popped it free from the pivoting assembly (Torque shaft).  Once you get that free you need to remove the shift rod from the shift lever.  I just pried the trunnion block off of the lever.  Now all that is left to get this thing out is to get a 9/16" wrench on the 2 nuts holding the transfer case bracket on.  Once you get these just pull the assembly out.  Be careful the screw on my trunnion block got caught in the front driveshaft universal and was a real pain to get back out. Once you get the assembly out you need to remove the transfer case bracket from the Torque shaft.  I tried to do as installed, but the bracket kept flexing and I couldn't get it out.  I just hooked it through the front tow hook and gave it a twist and it came right apart. 
shifter linkage

3. I decided to test fit the bracket up on the transmission to see if it would fit, since they didn't advertise it as fitting the

new bracket

4. Assemble the new bracket as per the directions from Skyjacker.  Now since this is designed to accompany skyjackers belly up, I believe that one part of the directions do not apply.  Okay I know it doesn't apply since I installed this on 2 Jeeps now.  Skyjacker has you cut the shift rod and install an extension piece.  Skip this part, it doesn't have to be done and will make the shaft to long if done.  You won't be able to adjust it.  I believe that this has to be done with the belly up.  The other part that I skipped is cutting the ends off of the torque shaft.  It is kind of tight, but there is enough clearance to reinstall it with out cutting.  I will have to see when I raise the skid plate if the one side interferes with the body.

Note: If you have the Automatic you will need to cut the shaft on the side that faces the transmission. The Auto has a web right in that location that interferres.

Assembled bracket
Assembled bracket 
 assembled bracket
Now all that is left it to get the whole assembly back in.  The hardest part is getting the pliers on the rods and reinstalling the ends in the bushings.  Once you get them back in all you need to do is adjust the trunnion.  You might get lucky and have it be just right so try the shifter out before you adjust.  The trunnion bolt is a 13mm.  You may have to adjust it a couple of times to get it perfect.  It helps if you have a second person to help you out.  This time it took me longer to adjust it than to install it.  The last time I got it on the first try.  Oh well.
installed bracket  installed bracket

The shifts are now nice and crisp.  It feels good going into 4 low.  The only concern I have is how close the torque shaft is to the bottom of the bracket.  It doesn't hit and stays about the same distance away, so I will just keep an eye on it in the future just in case.  I don't expect to have any problems with it.

    

  N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
TRUNNION BLOCK LOCK BOLT 8-14 - 72-120
TRANSFER CASE NUTS 47 35 -

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ron Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work.
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