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Long Arm Installation

Long Arms Installation

Now that we have gotten the Skid plate installed we can move on to our arms.  This is probably the second hardest part of the whole installation from the stand point of the arms being heavy and cutting and grinding on those brackets is a real pain.  This was an all day project.  I used electric's and muscle power.  If you had a compressor with a die grinder it would go much faster.

Additional Parts:
Frame Black Spray Paint
Tools Needed:
Sawzall
Cobalt edged 14tpi Metal cutting blades (10 pack)
Angle Grinder with grinding wheel
Pry Bar
Really big hammer
Hearing protection
Face Shield and goggles
Long Sleeve Shirt
Flat Tip Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
3/8" Ratchet
1/2" Ratchet
7/8" Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
17mm Socket
21mm Socket
13/16" Combo Wrench
7/8" Combo Wrench
10mm Combo Wrench
13mm Combo Wrench
17mm Combo Wrench
18mm Combo Wrench
21mm Combo Wrench
T-40 Torx
Floor Jack (2 if available)
Jeeps Bottle Jack (if 2nd floor jack not avail)
Jack Stands (6-ton) (2min, 4 recommended)

 

Rear Arm Installation:
If you have the jack stands available to support the entire vehicle in front of and behind the skid plate, then you may want to strip the entire suspension off before you do any cutting.  This does make it easier to move the axles around.  Just be careful of things that are attached to the axle when you do this.  I decided to try it without doing this step.  The RE instructions are kind of vague on which way to do it.  They mention removing suspension items, but if you are doing the upgrade you don't.
1. I decided to start on the rear first since it was going to be the most cutting.  I carefully read the RE instructions all 1 page for both front and rear.  Now I didn't remove the rest of the suspension while I did this, but I had jack stands all over the place and the floor jack underneath stuff.
2.  I jacked up the rear end and removed the tires, I then lowered the rear end down so that the rear axle was almost all the way to the ground.  I supported it with jack stands behind the skid plate, and another set positioned under the rear bumper.  These didn't actually touch, but they were fairly close at full extension.  I left the floor jack under the axle.  I did play with this setting a couple of times before I found a good position to allow the axle to relax.
3. I disconnected the rear sway bar links with a 15mm socket and 18mm wrench.  More so that they were out of my way than anything else. Dsc00809.jpg (75838 bytes)
4.  I installed the Zerks in the upper and lower arms.  The upper arms have 2 Zerks.  You will need a 3/8" wrench to install the 90deg Zerk in the adjustable section and a 5/16" wrench to install the other one.  The lower arms only have 1 Zerk.  You will need a 3/8" wrench to install the 90deg Zerk in the adjustable section.  This section will end up having the Zerk on the bottom.   Dsc01709.jpg (165313 bytes) Dsc01706.jpg (175628 bytes)
Dsc01704.jpg (207522 bytes)  
5. I then removed the lower control arm from one side.  I started with the passenger side since there wasn't a whole lot of stuff attached.  You will need a 21mm Socket and wrench (can substitute a 7/8" wrench) for the lower control arms.  I left the upper arms in until I finished cutting off the lower bracket. Dsc00812.jpg (69249 bytes)
6. Now time to break out the Power Tools.  The RE instructions say to remove just the lower control arm brackets.  Okay this makes sense.  So I first decided to try and grind off the weld on the outside of the frame.  Well that was a lesson in futility.  So I decided to go the easy route and cut off front edge and the outer side of the bracket.  This allowed me to get a pry bar in and bend the bracket down.  I just used a pry bar to move it back and forth until I snapped the weld on the inner side.  Once that was done, I ground down the outer weld a little more and just pried on the lip of what was left, it snapped fairly easy.  Now all you need to do is grind down the welds, and spray it with some frame black spray paint or if your like me whatever black spray paint you had on the shelf. Dsc01618.jpg (158690 bytes)
Dsc01621.jpg (170167 bytes)
7. Now remove your upper control arm.  You will need a  15mm socket and wrench to get these bolt out.  Now if you are removing your stock arms, you will also need a 13mm socket or wrench to remove the emergency brake cable bracket from the arms.    
8. Now before I installed the lower arm, I decided to test fit the upper arm since the upper control arm bracket seemed to be sitting pretty close to it's line of travel.  Once I got the arm up there I saw that it was uncomfortably close, you could stick a pencil between the arm and the bracket.  To close, so out came the Sawzall again.  This time I just hacked off the bracket and cleaned up the edges.  Some day in the future when I have a compressor I'll get in there and smooth it out. Dsc01623.jpg (175230 bytes)
9.  I then adjusted the lower control arm to the RE setting of 33 1/4"  and installed it.  You may need to remove the other lower control arm at this point so that you can get this one in.  You will need to reuse the factory axle bracket bolt so you will need the 21mm socket and wrench (can substitute a 7/8" wrench).  On the skid plate side you will need a 7/8" wrench for the nut and a 13/16" socket for the bolt head.  This is a real joy to get in.  If you look at the skid plate, you will notice that the outer hole where the bolt and washer go through isn't quite round since it is right at the bend point.  It is a little tricky to get the washer in without dropping it between the sections of the skid plate.  If you do this by accident, you can work the washer out with a scribe.  Once I got the control arm to line up with the hole, you will need to install a washer on the bolt and insert the tip of the bolt into the hole, now work the washer into the hole on the skid plate and install the bolt the rest of the way.  I then loosely installed the nuts on both bolts, but didn't tighten them down.   My length is currently 33 1/2".  I will need to readjust this when I fine tune the suspension.  I'll update the length at that time.  I intend to get it fairly close to stock length, so that when the tire stuffs into the wheel well it will go into the center of it. Dsc01626.jpg (156969 bytes)
Dsc01710.jpg (177180 bytes)
10.  I couldn't install the upper arm just yet since I needed to rotate the pinion up and I still had the other upper arm installed. So I just installed it on the skid plate side and left it sit on top of the upper axle bracket.  You will use the new bolts that came with the RE kit.  These require a 17mm socket and wrench to install.  The skid plate bolt goes through from the inside, so you don't have a lot of room to get the washer and nut on between the bracket and skid plate.  Good to have an extra hand here to hold up the arm while you get your hands into this area.  The Zerk fitting on the adjustable end points upwards.  You will have the room to rotate the arm to adjust the length, so it's not that much of a problem.  My length is currently 33 1/2".  I will need to readjust this when I fine tune the suspension.  I'll update the length at that time.  I intend to get it fairly close to stock length, so that when the tire stuffs into the wheel well it will go into the center of it. Dsc01625.jpg (187143 bytes)
11.  Now repeat steps 5-10 on the Driver side.  Be very careful on this side, the brake and fuel lines run right along the frame.  You will need to pry the bracket that is holding these lines off the top of the Upper Control Arm frame bracket.  You will also need to remove the rear brake line from the bracket.  Use a T-40 Torx to remove the bolt holding it on.  Once you get all of these clear, you can cut off the upper bracket carefully.
12. At this point you should have the 2 lower control arms installed and the 2 upper control arms bolted into the skid plate.  You will need to rotate the pinion up to install the upper arms into the brackets.  I used my bottle jack to do this, you could use another floor jack if it was available.  Remember the floor jack is still sitting under the rear differential supporting the axle.  I just positioned the floor jack to catch the pinion yoke.  I tried just on the housing, but it kept slipping off.  The axle rotated really easy.   Dsc01650.jpg (181099 bytes)
Dsc01708.jpg (163436 bytes)
13.  I rotated the differential up until the pinion was at about 17 degrees.  All you need to do is make certain that the drive shaft and the pinion yoke are at the same angle.  You can set the rear slightly low.  The rear differential rotates up on acceleration. Dsc01712.jpg (175493 bytes)
14. I then adjusted the upper control arms and inserted them into the axle bracket.  You will need to angle the Johnny joint to match the angle of the axle bracket.  Once you get it installed and the holes lined up, insert the RE supplied bolt and install the washer and nut.  You will need a 17mm socket and wrench for this. Dsc01711.jpg (171449 bytes)
15. Now that you have the rear arms installed, jack up the rear end and reinstall the tires.  Remove all the floor jacks and get ready to do the front end.

 

Front Arm Installation:
If you have the jack stands available to support the entire vehicle in front of and behind the skid plate, then you may want to strip the entire suspension off before you do any cutting.  This does make it easier to move the axles around.  Just be careful of things that are attached to the axle when you do this.  I decided to try it without doing this step.  The RE instructions are kind of vague on which way to do it.  They mention removing suspension items, but if you are doing the upgrade you don't.
1.  I jacked up the front end and removed the tires, I then lowered the front end down so that the front axle was almost all the way to the ground.  I supported it with jack stands underneath the front bumper.  Now I have an aftermarket bumper installed so I was very confident that it would support the weight.  I left the floor jack under the axle.
2. I did end up disconnecting the quick disconnects on the front axle to allow it to move around a little bit.  I really don't know if it was needed, but I did this install trying to recover from the flu, so maybe it was me. Dsc00853.jpg (77489 bytes)
3.  I installed the Zerks in the lower arms.  You will need a 3/8" wrench to install the 90deg Zerk in the adjustable section.  This section will end up having the Zerk on the top.   Dsc01722.jpg (148854 bytes)
4. I then removed the lower control arm from one side.  I started with the passenger side since there wasn't a whole lot of stuff attached.  You will need a 21mm Socket and wrench (can substitute a 7/8" wrench) for the lower control arms.  You will need a  15mm socket and wrench to get these bolt out.  I left the upper arms in until I finished cutting off the lower bracket. Dsc01630.jpg (178978 bytes)
5. Now time to break out the Power Tools.  The RE instructions once again said to remove just the lower control arm brackets.  I had learned my lesson about grinding off the weld on the outside of the frame.  Since I was feeling the greatest by this point, I just hacked off the lower control arm brackets as close to the frame as the sawzall would let me.  I'll get the grinder out and clean these off some time further down the road when I have more time.  Once I got them off all you need to do is grind down the edges, and spray it with some frame black spray paint or if your like me whatever black spray paint you had on the shelf.  They actually don't look that bad, just something that I need to clean up. Dsc01631.jpg (176792 bytes)
6.  I then adjusted the lower control arm to the RE setting of 37 1/4"  (RE says 37 1/2", but I know I have to go shorter) and installed it.  You may need to remove the other lower control arm at this point so that you can get this one in.  You will need to reuse the factory axle bracket bolt so you will need the 21mm socket and wrench (can substitute a 7/8" wrench).  If you have a cam bolt for your front end, just set it at zero (straight up).  This was used at the factory to adjust camber and pinion angle, you now have adjustable arms.  On the skid plate side you will need a 7/8" wrench for the nut and a 13/16" socket for the bolt head.  This is a real joy to get in.  If you look at the skid plate, you will notice that the outer hole where the bolt and washer go through isn't quite round since it is right at the bend point.  It is a little tricky to get the washer in without dropping it between the sections of the skid plate.  If you do this by accident, you can work the washer out with a scribe.  Once I got the control arm to line up with the hole, you will need to install a washer on the bolt and insert the tip of the bolt into the hole, now work the washer into the hole on the skid plate and install the bolt the rest of the way.  I then loosely installed the nuts on both bolts, but didn't tighten them down.   My length is currently 37 1/4".  I will need to readjust this when I fine tune the suspension.  I'll update the length at that time.  I intend to get it fairly close to stock length, so that when the tire stuffs into the wheel well it will go into the center of it. Dsc01633.jpg (168805 bytes)
Dsc01635.jpg (165666 bytes)
7.  Now that you have the front lower arms installed, jack up the front end and reinstall the tires.  Remove all the floor jacks. 
8.  We will need to adjust your front pinion angle.  All you need to do is make certain that the drive shaft and the pinion yoke are at the same angle.  You can set the front slightly high.  The front differential rotates down on acceleration.  Once you have figured out where you need to be, we can position the front differential and install the arms.  You may need to repeat this step as you fine tune the suspension to your Jeep.

Dsc01723.jpg (175712 bytes)

9.  Place a floor jacket underneath the differential just in front of the pinion yoke.  Leave enough room for the angle gauge so that you can check the angles. Dsc01718.jpg (155219 bytes)
10. Now remove your upper control arm.  You will need a  15mm socket and wrench to get these bolt out.  Now if you are removing your stock arms, you will also need to remove the lines running along the driver side arm for the front locker.  These lines will get zip tied to the new lower arm.  DSC00887.JPG (63563 bytes) Dsc00890.jpg (64015 bytes)
Dsc00891.jpg (73551 bytes)
9. At this point you should have the 2 lower control arms installed and the upper arms removed.  You will need to rotate the pinion up to install the upper arms into the brackets.  The axle rotated really easy.  
10.  You will use the new bolts that came with the RE kit.  These require a 17mm socket and wrench to install.  These arms bolt into the new lower arms and also into the axle brackets.  You do have the room to rotate the arm to adjust the length, so it's not that much of a problem.  My length is currently 17 1/8".  I will need to readjust this when I fine tune the suspension. Dsc01636.jpg (156859 bytes)
11.. I installed the passenger side arm first since it was the easiest. Dsc01720.jpg (186100 bytes)
12.  When I went to install the driver side I first needed to sort out all the mess of lines running to the front differential.  The biggest headache was the way they routed the vent line.  I disconnected the clamp holding the hose to the radiator with a 10mm wrench.  I then untangled it and bolted it back in. Dsc01645.jpg (157479 bytes)
13. I couldn't get this arm to bolt up.  I first bolted it into the RE arm, but couldn't get it to line up with the holes in the axle bracket.  So I decided to bolt it into the axle and then the arm.  This is when I noticed what was the problem.  The front Dana 44 has a much larger housing, so the arm catches on a web right at the top.  I needed to grind down the inner bottom edge of the axle end of the arm to allow it to clear the web. Dsc01639.jpg (173206 bytes)
Dsc01640.jpg (163864 bytes) Dsc01641.jpg (160001 bytes) Dsc01642.jpg (150466 bytes) Dsc01643.jpg (175256 bytes)
14. Once I got everything ground down I installed the arm. Dsc01646.jpg (167689 bytes)
15.  Before you forget, route the locker line along the lower arm and then up the upper arm.  Take a couple of zip ties and secure them in position. Dsc01648.jpg (165328 bytes) Dsc01647.jpg (160098 bytes)

 

  N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Front      
SUSPENSION ARM LOWER AXLE BRACKET NUT 163  120  -
SUSPENSION ARM LOWER FRAME BRACKET NUT 176  130  -
SUSPENSION ARM UPPER AXLE BRACKET NUT 75  55  -
SUSPENSION ARM UPPER FRAME BRACKET BOLT 75  55  -
       
Rear      
SUSPENSION ARM LOWER AXLE BRACKET NUT 177  130  -
SUSPENSION ARM LOWER FRAME BRACKET NUT 177  130  -
SUSPENSION ARM UPPER AXLE BRACKET NUT 75  55  -
SUSPENSION ARM UPPER FRAME BRACKET BOLT 75  55  -

Next Page

Skid Plate
Brake Line Standoffs
Long Arms
Front End
Rear End
Additional Parts
Magna-Flow Muffler
Tom Woods Drive Shaft
Issues
Final Notes

This page last updated: 16-Apr-2008

Content and Design © 2002-present WanderingTrail,  Ronald Seegert
Common Sense and Safety should always be observed when working on your vehicle or doing modifications. Jackstands, wheel blocks, disconnecting the battery are a few of the basic safety precautions that should be used and may not be mentioned in the write ups on this site. You are responsible for your own installation, these write ups are a helpful guideline and should not be taken as an official installation instruction. My write up may be different from the kits currently out there, so alwasy double check the manufacturers installation instructions when installing anything. I try to keep the site up to date with changes that have occured as I discover them, but may not have the latest unless someone lets me know. If you feel that an install is above your capabilities after reading my write ups, I recommend getting together with a club and getting some help. Only a few times have I needed to employe some actual help from a shop to get something done. Usually welding or A/C work. While I have spent many years working on mechanical systems, I am not an expert, nor do I pretend to be one. I hope these write ups have been useful to you.
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